MFW : Milan Fashion Week Trend A/W15

 Milan in my opinion have always been slightly sexier than other cities. The women don't shy way from glitzs and glam, they embrace it. Victorian frills and a broody mood came together to create darkly decadent themes. On the opposite scale we also spot a lot of sweet pastel tones, sheer dresses and pleats to convey a more youthful aesthetic.


Sheer

Sheer fabrics, delicate frills, luxurious lace demonstrated at Alberta Ferretti, Dolce & Gabbana and Philosophy showcased skilled craftsmanship.  Sheer is an absolute essential for getting dressed this season. Sheer panel like at Emilio Pucci are predicted to be a hit on the red carpet. Sheer with strategically placed embellishments at Versace and Francesco Scognamiglio are also great evening looks.

Stripes

Sustaining the 70s theme, stripes were a perfect choice for fashion week to emanate this. Stripes do not spend too long off runway, they keep returning and each instance, there's new twist, whether it be on fur like at Marni, one-sided at Missoni or monotone at Salvatore Ferragamo, AW15 earn their stripes again.

Tapastry

Bewear your grandma's carpets and chintzy floral curtains are no longer safe from becoming fashion victims of this trend. Antonio Marras set the tone for this by having models walked onto matching carpet prints. Very wintery and very Milan. Designers like Just Cavalli and Alberta Ferretti took a more folklore print approach while Etro and Stella Jean look a more ethnic inspiration.

 

Pleats

Pleating is versatile technique to manipulate fabrics to achieve different looks. Gucci and Luisa Beccaria are making geek looks oh-so-chic with pleated skirt paired with sheer blouse and beret. Robertta Cavalli creates daring cut-outs with pleated gowns while Salvatore Ferragamo softens a structured leather dress with pleating.

LFW : London Fashion Week Trend A/W15

Let's take a look at what the UK top designers wants us to be wearing this winter. The culottes have spread to this side of the pond also. There's less pastels and more primary colours and retro prints. While the designers were all saying boho seventies, here its more focused on the early part of the decade with more sixties mod dresses with layering polo neck. Lots and lots of polo necks.


Roll Neck, Low hem

Layering is in and we're glad for this winter warming trend. You can pile on chunky knits and thick coats and still be chic. Instead of pairing your turtle neck with pencil skirt for the hourglass shape try it with an ankle-length flared hem for a more relaxed vibe like Barbara Casasola and 1205. Or layer it under a slip dress like Tanya Taylor.

 

60's Mod

Since the Mod subculture started in Britain back in the 60's where else can do it better than at LFW. The mini hemline dresses are in bold graphics at Judy Wu, color blocked at J Moon and psychedelic swirl at Jonathan Saunders. If roll neck and long hem is not for you then try this trend. Layer your polo neck with A-line skirt and a pair of knee high boots for swinging 60's cool.

Thigh Slit

Here's a trend you don't have to wait till winter to wear. We're celebrating the legs. The high slits are in again not just in London but across the fashion cities. Side slits on floaty dresses at Topshop Uniques and Matthew Williamson are spot on the seventies. Front slit kept things more day time at David Koma and Burberry Prorsum.

Summer Leather

Leather is seen every season everywhere, its a classic material used to add tough edge to an outfit. This time step outside the comfort zone because leather is not just on jackets anymore. Sophisticated structured leather seen at David Koma, laser cut leather dress at Erdem and wrap dress at JW Anderson. Great for early summer and easing into the winter also.

PFW : Paris Fashion Week Trends A/W15

NYFW : New York Fashion Week Trend A/W15

New York was the first city to showcase their designer's Autumn/winter collection of 2015.  Now that fashion week are all wrapping up its time to sum up the catwalk trends. We are familiar with the seventies trend and colour palette and prints from my last post and form previous season. But each cities, like people have different influences both culturally and socially which effects could be seen collectively on the runway.


Culottes

New York has embrace the Flare. This particular trouser shape has been having a renaissance for a few seasons now. The culotte has transformed from the past fashion faux par to chic ankle grazer trouser that can be warn smart or casual. Calf length ‘shorts’ are length of choice, even in winter. At Tibi, They are sophisticated, tailored and look perfect paired with oversize knits or get a light pair for summer like at Tracy Reese.

Gray

Androgyny and gray are a perfect fashion marriage. In true new-yorkers way its cooler to not look like you're trying to look cool. One of the more understated look to come off the runway. Slouched silhouettes, relaxed fit in many shades of gray and slight norm-core nod. Looks like they threw it together last minute but look closer and everything matches and tailored to perfection. Perfect smart casual uniform of the season.

Tights

Kanye West proved at Addidas show that body stockings are a real thing.  The rest are agreeing on sheer tights with strappy sandals. This is great for going into spring too so stock up! Sheer are great for showing your winter pins without much legs prep. We saw sexy spots tights at Diane Von Furstenberg, textured at Nicole Miller and coloured at Honor and Jeremy Scott. What ever takes your fancy as long as they're sheer and pair with short skirts for 70's rocker chic reference.

Slip dress

Winter aren't all tights and polo necks. The disco is still alive and we will be wearing slip dresses once again. Similar to the plunge neckline phenomenon, spaghetti straps and material that clings to the body screams feminine sex apparel. Monique Ihuillier and Rodarte's slip dresses nailed red carpet ready looks. J.Mendel, Diane Von Furstenberg and Narciso Rodriguez are more relaxed evening look.

8 Key Trends at Fashion Week : Autumn/Winter 15

The long fashion month has just wrapped up last week and I've been keeping busy rounding up all the trends I spotted on the runway during New York, London, Milan and Paris fashion week. Sharing with you guys all the things you'll be seeing on the streets rest of 2015. The biggest trend no doubt in all the cities were the 1970's theme, we saw it last season and have been carried into the winter. Designers just can't get out of the Boho grooves. The thing about taking inspiration from sub-cultures of the past is not simply emulating the style but taking some elements and essence of that era and bringing it into modern day fashion. Here are the 8 major key trends that you can easily spot and may even already be in your wardrobe.

1. Fringe

The most recognizable retro element from the ‘70s. Fringe trench and cape was spotted at Burberry, shoes were fringed at Aquazzura, tiered fringe dresses at Tom Ford and Nina Ricci. There were more lighter feathery fringe from Marchesa and Rebecca Minkoff for an evening look. If all over fringe is not your style then there's more subtle fringe on hems of scarves seen at Armani and Eudon Choi.


2. Daring Neckline

Second most favorable 70's homage is the low neckline. Clinched at the waist and deep plunge V- neck is a super sexy trend. If you don't mind the cold. But if that is too daring then try keyhole neckline instead where there's high neck with slit down the torso with just a slither of skin showing. And in true 70's spirit bras are optional!


3. Embellishment  

Taking our eyes off all the hippies for a bit and indulge in dazzling unexpected embellishments. For all the bling lovers there's intricate beading, sequins and pearls, you wont be disappointed. From Holly Fulton and Elie Saab's beaded floral and crystal embellishments to Rodarte hand sewn, applique flowers inject some floral spring to the winter weather. For those who don’t admire the minimalist trend, Versace and Lanvin has you covered. Blumarine and Anthony Vaccarello look to the stars for there jewels inspiration while Jenny Packham and Rahul Mishra look undersea for pearls encrustations. 

4. Fur Collar

Fur is a winter staple, the bigger the better with oversized coats, faux stoles and shearling trims. Weather practical and chic. Orange lapel will brighten up your muted coat like at Shrimps and Christopher Raeburn. Pastel Mongolian fur collar bring a fun flirty vibe seen at House of Holland, Matthew Williamson and Dries Van Noten. Faux gets a big thumbs up this season. But retro shearling at Ashley Williams and Lavin or big fox collar at Nicole Miller, Altuzarra and Ralph Lauren are still a big hit.


5. Retro Prints

A lot of different prints were visible on the catwalk but they all speak retro. Some styled to clashed together and some were head to toe in unison. Few were noteworthy, psychedelic, geometric and florals. Geometric print made a bold statement, with contrasting colours and abstract shapes. Pucci, Jasper Conran and Karen Walker, giving slight mod sixties geo-print on shift dresses and knee boots. Non geometric print took more seventies psychedelic route, swirl strips and fluid lines but equality as bold. Spotted at Dior, Roksanda, Jonathan Saunders and Topshop Unique to create trippy prints and dreamy effect. Then there's retro floral. Prints on flowing chiffon of, maxi dresses, pussy-bowed blouse and flared trousers which will takeover summer, giving off care free hippy vibe.


6. Matching Seperates / Co-ords

You know when your underwear matches its going to be a good day. Now things are about to get a whole lot more complicated. Or not. Depending how you translate this trend. There's the matching pattern suits seen at Gucci, Ellie Saab and Carven. Or highstreet virsion at H&M. It's sharp and sophisticated for work. And if you think co-ords are only for one season think again, there's the skirt co-ordinates like at Paul&Joe, Vionnet and Fyodor Golan. Which can be chic or sexy depending on hem length. For those who the idea of matching prints send your stomach churning and head spinning then try the colour co-ordinates. Wear one shade separates. Convenient for people with monochrome wardrobe. If you want relaxed feel then opt for knit muted tones like Joseph and Stella McCartney. For a more polished look choose luxe material and tailored shape as seen on J JS Lee, Marc Jacob and Thomas Tait.


7. Pastels 

Pastel is the name of the game this season. Think pistachio green, cotton candy pink, sweet lavender and other sugary shades. But those who tend to shy away from girlish macaroon tones, no need to dismiss it yet. Despite the soft pallette you will see them teamed with hard edge suits standing out at Prada and Giorgio Mrmani, Deeper tones at Tome, sporty at Lacoste and interesting texture at Maxmara. But of course fairytale sheer dresses and satin gowns are still girlish pastel favorites at Bora Aksu, Vionnet, Marchesa and Philosophy.


8. Colour Trends

Bright red is a bold fall look. Head to toe matching red, matching shoes and accessories. Marques’ Almeida, Versace and Osman were a few to embrace this trend. Primary pallettes are coming in stong. Another bold color we're seeing is Cobalt blue and Royal blue. Similar to red its paired with matching separates like at Diane Von Furstenberg but also can be warn with soft palette for a pop of colour like at DKNY or with prints at Roksanda.

Brownie points for Derek Lam and Michael Kors and many others opting in for brown hues. No surprise here because we've been seeing the seventies suede and will camel never really go out of fashion? Its like UGGs for palette, comforting and you can't really go wrong. Olive follows the same seventies retro theme and great color for representing the autumn leaves, demonstrate at Jasper Conran.

Blush and nude is the unexpected shade to see for me and my favourite one. Clean lines at Narciso-Rodriguez, fluffy at Fendi and ethereal at Francesco Scognamiglio, the fleshy colour translate to something feminine and pure. Lastly pops or colour have popped up all over the runway. Peaks of neon and streak of primary colours against black, white or muted colours. Versace, Fyodor Golan, and Alexander Mcqueen have really turned heads with their collection's hues.

Crushing on Max Mara's Marilyn

Max Mara RTW Fall 15 left me feeling warm and cosy inside. True to Max Mara signature outerwear focused, wooly coats, cashmere cardigan and layer knits were the stars of the show. Inspired by photographs taken by George Barris in 1962 of Marilyn, the show took us to the breezy seaside with luscious waves projected onto the runway.

 Models stride through the waters with wildly tousled hair, eyeliner and peachy lips oozes femininity of Marilyn Monroe that we find so captivating. Nudes, Camel and pastel are displayed in Minimalist lines of oversize coat hugging the body like a warm blanket.

Cat eye glasses and kitten heels paired with 1950's pencil skirt gives us true bombshell vibe with waist ecentuating soft curves . Padded silky quilting, tasseled loafers and fuzzy trims on jackets and coats brings this beach girl to night time sophistication. This collection is highly wearable, comfortable and gives us a reason to stick with camel just a little while longer.

Manish Arora To The Max

For people that know me, they know I like a bit of kitch. I have always been drawn to maximalism style when I was an art student all the teachers use to tell me "edit. edit. edit. There's too much going on in your work.". But I like being bombarded with many ideas at once, it intrigues me. Its like an explosion of creativity that can't be contained. Why is that so wrong? I do understand to a degree. Balance brings beauty and sometimes less is more. But may be its like marmite some people hate it and some just can't get enough.

Manish Arora is like Marmite, though I hate Marmite (not great analogy in hind sight) but I love his work. He is an Indian fashion designer based in New Delhi and no stranger to the runway. He had a successful debut at the London Fashion Week in September 2005 and exhibited some of his work at the V&A in 2007. He has done many collaborations with brands like Reebok, M.A.C and Swatch. He was once creative director of the womenswear for fashion house Paco Rabanne in 2011-12. Manish was dubbed the "John Galliano of India", is known for his signicture rich palette of psychedelic colours and bold motifs. His style combine traditional Indian crafts like embroidery, appliqué and beading with fashionable and more western silhouette. Here's his SS15 collection at Paris fashion week in detail. 

When nearly everyone else is looking back at supposedly more prosperous times, clean and minimal designs. The indian designer never lets reality get in the way of his never-ending cheerfulness. This collection is like taking a trippy space cookie. You're a free spirited traveller on a journey through mountains of candy  and pastel landscape of roses. Guided by a hazy three eyed indian goddess Bhadra Kali into a spaceship dotted with astro lights. It takes a moment to adjust to the fast pace visuals but its a storytelling paradise of modern mythology/space oddysey that's exciting in its presentation. Symbolic hindu beauty of Bindi, coloured hair parting and Naath (nose ring) were his runway signature look, a homage to his motherland.

Prints of kaleidoscopic cosmos world, double vision dreamstate motifs and 3D embroidered roses were displayed on lightweight sporty silhouette. T-shirt dress, jumpers, cycling shorts and glittering tube tops injects a relaxed ease. Pastel colours layered in sheer textures of chiffon and holographic panels creates a light hearted frothiness. Pearlescent, reflective embroidery and pleated sequins painstakingly crafted by Indian artisans were balanced out by breather spaced of iridescent lurex, where large expanses were left blank. This may be his version of editing down. Armed with Gladiator cyber sandals, PVC backpacks, bum bags and beaded baseball caps, Manish's girls are ready to enter the mothership!

Though his work can't be mistaken for anyone else's. There is a softer, normal-ish side to this collection than the previous. He has developed realist perception of what women want today, this will no doubt be the best lure to draw Parisians to his new flagship store. I could also see a similarity of influence by the way singer like MIA dresses (especially the hooded robe pieces). Her MV: XXXO really captured the sort of new take on Bollywood culture and indian art with modern twist.

Rest of SS15: Fashion Week Trend Report

So, here are a few things we have learnt from the fashionable month of september. London proves sport luxe is not budging, anoraks, crop tops and rain coats. Paris embrace the seventies with summer suede, silk neck ties and boho muses. Milan was bold with stripes, grids and denims. While New York went etherial with 3Dflorals and icy blues and iridescent pallet. Here are a few key looks to keep in mind for next spring:

Sport Luxe  The effect of relaxed-luxe dressing were felt everywhere, designer are starting to create clothes with the everyday woman in mind (not their budget). Athleticism conveyed through mesh, neoprene and clinical palette, bomber jackets and draw-waisted trousers, and Carven’s 60s-style zippered dresses, cycling shorts and funnel necks. Whether its tennis visors at Akris, crisp technical fibres at Kenzo and crop tops and sweatpants at Narsir Mazhar, whatever sport you're into its all here. Shiny anorak paired with crop tops are a sure way to keep up the hype.

Pussy Bows  In contrast this trend is ultra feminine. Homage to the 70's, a slither of thin silky neck scarf  billowing down the catwalk, exuding retro appeal. Knot it loosely around your neck or tie it in  a bow will draw attention to your neck which is a sexy understated part of a woman's body. Paired with a shirt  at work to soften the look or with plunging neck line tops or dresses for a slight modest coverage. 

Denim Jeans culottes on the runway at Chloé, Stella McCartney, Valentino and Saint Laurent. The saying goes, if repeated in three then call it a trend. Yes, they went there…alarm bells ringing in my head. I personally will not be embracing this trend only because genetics did not give me long legs. Trousers cut at medi length is tricky, especially a loose fitting shape like culottes. Make sure to wear delicate high heels with this to avoid looking shorter than you are. There are other denim trends though,
at Vanessa Bruno and Leonard they were patchworked, at Kenzo in kick pleat midi skirts and oversized, and embellished at Ashish. It's denim with parhzaz, beaded, sequinned, printed, frayed, its no longer sundays casual mom jeans its sisterhood of the traveling pants!

Ballerina Balance is the name of the game here. Juxtaposition of masculine and feminine, Yin and Yang, with every boyish trend there's a girlish counter trend. This is stuff of girly childhood dreams, fluffy, shiny and elegant. Beware its not for the faint hearted but the 'barely there' trend is where its at, Sheer mesh has been circulating the runway for a few season now but tulle and chiffon are making a comeback. Pretty nudes are good pallet for the effect of barely there without having to bare. Go modest on footwear with pumps or flats like Burberry Prorsum and toughen up the look with leather or denim jacket.

Avant-Garde Every season there are a few designers who press the F**k it button and scraped away the fashion week rule book. They put their hands up and go 'you know what, I think I'll do what I want today'. As kooky as they are I think they should be celebrated for their arts and craftsmanship and the guts to do things differently. Plus, who else will make clothes for LadyGaGa to wear? There are whimsical characters on Moschino and Sibling's runway, Pop-art inspired at Watanabe and naturalistic pieces from Gareth Pugh. All good stuff.  


That's all guys. Thanks for checking in!

Far East Movement : Trend Report SS15

Fashion houses look to the east for inspiration as Japanese dressing makes a solid appearance on the runways with kimono-style wraps and prints, billowing sleeves and obi belts. Relaxed robe-like silhouette prevails at Marni, Tome and The Row, while traditional obi sashes are translated to modern ensembles at Alexander Wang, Philip Lim and Creatures of the Wind. Gucci lets you slip to the sensual side with a silk shirtwaist dress with floral patterns and gold trims indicative of a lux oriental temptress. Floral prints were key for Saint Laurent and Giambattista Valli, where embellished, applique cherry blossom branches reached over the shoulders of dresses. Carven, Mara Hoffman and Alexander McQueen translate japanese painting into bold graphics on stiff jackets and dresses.

 Clockwise from top: Alexander McQueen, MM6 Maison Martin Margiela, Marni & Gucci

Garden Variety : Trend Report SS15

What would spring be like without flowers? Same goes for the runway, I do not dare think what S/S fashion week would be like without floral patterns…a scary and sad world it would be. Each season it’s not a case of will they appear, but in which forms?

Clockwise from top: Simone Rocha, House Of Holland, Giles & Oscar De La Renta

Tropical prints were huge hits for SS14. For SS15 Leather mini skirts with 3D floral and botanical prints, was seen at Fendi. Floral in geometric prints with midi skirts over boots at Max Mara. The bohemian sheer, chiffon pieces with applique flowers at Alberta Feretti. Matthew Williamson has Balinese flower prints on blouses while House of Holland did funky clashing florals and patchwork jeans, both with 70's flower-power chic in mind. Red wallpaper florals were also present at Simone Rocha, Celine and Dolce & Gabbana while Marchesa and Rocha's Woodstock vibe floral scattered across sheer gowns.

To sum up this season's floral, bold, appliqued flowers whether scattered over an organza skirt or arranged in striking panels on a simple black dress, ditzy florals in red, yellow, pink and white. Both delicate and daring, with plenty of lace with stunning embroidered and 3D-appliqued. Reminds me of a romantic bohemian meadow.

The Explorer : Trend Report SS15

Military style has always been a favourite and huge influence in fashion. I personally think its something to do with female empowerment where theres something alluring about a woman who can hold her own. A great balance between masculine and femininity are what this fashion week is all about. There's a shift in tailored womenswear. It's not all ruffles, feathers and obvious femininity, we witness some sleek and modern woman who dresses for utility in khaki, army green and earth tones but still retains a look of effortless poise. The look creates a ‘get up and go’ aesthetic with Long line, shirt dress, belted oversize jackets and flowing blazers, its a softer take on military.

Sometimes it's the little details that stick out as in the case of utility pockets (mainly on NYFW). Front facing, large, flapped pockets have been spotted across the runway. A new safari jacket with a nod of urban chic should keep you fashionably warm for winter. It was an expedition on Ralph Lauren, Victoria Beckham, Trussardi and Nicholas K's runway albeit through African safari, Saharan desert or streets of India. These women are the curious explorers, a chic and extravagant ones nonetheless with jewels, hats and messenger bags to stash her valuable findings.

Clockwise from top: Marc Jacobs, Ralph Lauren, Victoria Beckham & Trussardi