Sunday, 9 November 2014

Manish Arora To The Max

For people that know me, they know I like a bit of kitch. I have always been drawn to maximalism style when I was an art student all the teachers use to tell me "edit. edit. edit. There's too much going on in your work.". But I like being bombarded with many ideas at once, it intrigues me. Its like an explosion of creativity that can't be contained. Why is that so wrong? I do understand to a degree. Balance brings beauty and sometimes less is more. But may be its like marmite some people hate it and some just can't get enough.

Manish Arora is like Marmite, though I hate Marmite (not great analogy in hind sight) but I love his work. He is an Indian fashion designer based in New Delhi and no stranger to the runway. He had a successful debut at the London Fashion Week in September 2005 and exhibited some of his work at the V&A in 2007. He has done many collaborations with brands like Reebok, M.A.C and Swatch. He was once creative director of the womenswear for fashion house Paco Rabanne in 2011-12. Manish was dubbed the "John Galliano of India", is known for his signicture rich palette of psychedelic colours and bold motifs. His style combine traditional Indian crafts like embroidery, appliqué and beading with fashionable and more western silhouette. Here's his SS15 collection at Paris fashion week in detail. 

When nearly everyone else is looking back at supposedly more prosperous times, clean and minimal designs. The indian designer never lets reality get in the way of his never-ending cheerfulness. This collection is like taking a trippy space cookie. You're a free spirited traveller on a journey through mountains of candy  and pastel landscape of roses. Guided by a hazy three eyed indian goddess Bhadra Kali into a spaceship dotted with astro lights. It takes a moment to adjust to the fast pace visuals but its a storytelling paradise of modern mythology/space oddysey that's exciting in its presentation. Symbolic hindu beauty of Bindi, coloured hair parting and Naath (nose ring) were his runway signature look, a homage to his motherland.

Prints of kaleidoscopic cosmos world, double vision dreamstate motifs and 3D embroidered roses were displayed on lightweight sporty silhouette. T-shirt dress, jumpers, cycling shorts and glittering tube tops injects a relaxed ease. Pastel colours layered in sheer textures of chiffon and holographic panels creates a light hearted frothiness. Pearlescent, reflective embroidery and pleated sequins painstakingly crafted by Indian artisans were balanced out by breather spaced of iridescent lurex, where large expanses were left blank. This may be his version of editing down. Armed with Gladiator cyber sandals, PVC backpacks, bum bags and beaded baseball caps, Manish's girls are ready to enter the mothership!

Though his work can't be mistaken for anyone else's. There is a softer, normal-ish side to this collection than the previous. He has developed realist perception of what women want today, this will no doubt be the best lure to draw Parisians to his new flagship store. I could also see a similarity of influence by the way singer like MIA dresses (especially the hooded robe pieces). Her MV: XXXO really captured the sort of new take on Bollywood culture and indian art with modern twist.

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