Rest of SS15: Fashion Week Trend Report

So, here are a few things we have learnt from the fashionable month of september. London proves sport luxe is not budging, anoraks, crop tops and rain coats. Paris embrace the seventies with summer suede, silk neck ties and boho muses. Milan was bold with stripes, grids and denims. While New York went etherial with 3Dflorals and icy blues and iridescent pallet. Here are a few key looks to keep in mind for next spring:

Sport Luxe  The effect of relaxed-luxe dressing were felt everywhere, designer are starting to create clothes with the everyday woman in mind (not their budget). Athleticism conveyed through mesh, neoprene and clinical palette, bomber jackets and draw-waisted trousers, and Carven’s 60s-style zippered dresses, cycling shorts and funnel necks. Whether its tennis visors at Akris, crisp technical fibres at Kenzo and crop tops and sweatpants at Narsir Mazhar, whatever sport you're into its all here. Shiny anorak paired with crop tops are a sure way to keep up the hype.

Pussy Bows  In contrast this trend is ultra feminine. Homage to the 70's, a slither of thin silky neck scarf  billowing down the catwalk, exuding retro appeal. Knot it loosely around your neck or tie it in  a bow will draw attention to your neck which is a sexy understated part of a woman's body. Paired with a shirt  at work to soften the look or with plunging neck line tops or dresses for a slight modest coverage. 

Denim Jeans culottes on the runway at Chloé, Stella McCartney, Valentino and Saint Laurent. The saying goes, if repeated in three then call it a trend. Yes, they went there…alarm bells ringing in my head. I personally will not be embracing this trend only because genetics did not give me long legs. Trousers cut at medi length is tricky, especially a loose fitting shape like culottes. Make sure to wear delicate high heels with this to avoid looking shorter than you are. There are other denim trends though,
at Vanessa Bruno and Leonard they were patchworked, at Kenzo in kick pleat midi skirts and oversized, and embellished at Ashish. It's denim with parhzaz, beaded, sequinned, printed, frayed, its no longer sundays casual mom jeans its sisterhood of the traveling pants!

Ballerina Balance is the name of the game here. Juxtaposition of masculine and feminine, Yin and Yang, with every boyish trend there's a girlish counter trend. This is stuff of girly childhood dreams, fluffy, shiny and elegant. Beware its not for the faint hearted but the 'barely there' trend is where its at, Sheer mesh has been circulating the runway for a few season now but tulle and chiffon are making a comeback. Pretty nudes are good pallet for the effect of barely there without having to bare. Go modest on footwear with pumps or flats like Burberry Prorsum and toughen up the look with leather or denim jacket.

Avant-Garde Every season there are a few designers who press the F**k it button and scraped away the fashion week rule book. They put their hands up and go 'you know what, I think I'll do what I want today'. As kooky as they are I think they should be celebrated for their arts and craftsmanship and the guts to do things differently. Plus, who else will make clothes for LadyGaGa to wear? There are whimsical characters on Moschino and Sibling's runway, Pop-art inspired at Watanabe and naturalistic pieces from Gareth Pugh. All good stuff.  


That's all guys. Thanks for checking in!

Far East Movement : Trend Report SS15

Fashion houses look to the east for inspiration as Japanese dressing makes a solid appearance on the runways with kimono-style wraps and prints, billowing sleeves and obi belts. Relaxed robe-like silhouette prevails at Marni, Tome and The Row, while traditional obi sashes are translated to modern ensembles at Alexander Wang, Philip Lim and Creatures of the Wind. Gucci lets you slip to the sensual side with a silk shirtwaist dress with floral patterns and gold trims indicative of a lux oriental temptress. Floral prints were key for Saint Laurent and Giambattista Valli, where embellished, applique cherry blossom branches reached over the shoulders of dresses. Carven, Mara Hoffman and Alexander McQueen translate japanese painting into bold graphics on stiff jackets and dresses.

 Clockwise from top: Alexander McQueen, MM6 Maison Martin Margiela, Marni & Gucci

Garden Variety : Trend Report SS15

What would spring be like without flowers? Same goes for the runway, I do not dare think what S/S fashion week would be like without floral patterns…a scary and sad world it would be. Each season it’s not a case of will they appear, but in which forms?

Clockwise from top: Simone Rocha, House Of Holland, Giles & Oscar De La Renta

Tropical prints were huge hits for SS14. For SS15 Leather mini skirts with 3D floral and botanical prints, was seen at Fendi. Floral in geometric prints with midi skirts over boots at Max Mara. The bohemian sheer, chiffon pieces with applique flowers at Alberta Feretti. Matthew Williamson has Balinese flower prints on blouses while House of Holland did funky clashing florals and patchwork jeans, both with 70's flower-power chic in mind. Red wallpaper florals were also present at Simone Rocha, Celine and Dolce & Gabbana while Marchesa and Rocha's Woodstock vibe floral scattered across sheer gowns.

To sum up this season's floral, bold, appliqued flowers whether scattered over an organza skirt or arranged in striking panels on a simple black dress, ditzy florals in red, yellow, pink and white. Both delicate and daring, with plenty of lace with stunning embroidered and 3D-appliqued. Reminds me of a romantic bohemian meadow.

The Explorer : Trend Report SS15

Military style has always been a favourite and huge influence in fashion. I personally think its something to do with female empowerment where theres something alluring about a woman who can hold her own. A great balance between masculine and femininity are what this fashion week is all about. There's a shift in tailored womenswear. It's not all ruffles, feathers and obvious femininity, we witness some sleek and modern woman who dresses for utility in khaki, army green and earth tones but still retains a look of effortless poise. The look creates a ‘get up and go’ aesthetic with Long line, shirt dress, belted oversize jackets and flowing blazers, its a softer take on military.

Sometimes it's the little details that stick out as in the case of utility pockets (mainly on NYFW). Front facing, large, flapped pockets have been spotted across the runway. A new safari jacket with a nod of urban chic should keep you fashionably warm for winter. It was an expedition on Ralph Lauren, Victoria Beckham, Trussardi and Nicholas K's runway albeit through African safari, Saharan desert or streets of India. These women are the curious explorers, a chic and extravagant ones nonetheless with jewels, hats and messenger bags to stash her valuable findings.

Clockwise from top: Marc Jacobs, Ralph Lauren, Victoria Beckham & Trussardi

Stripes VS Grid : Trend Report SS15

While stripes are no stranger to spring runway for once, a spring stripe that's not "nautical". Lets celebrate the freshness of these strong, multi-colors, graphic, non-nautical stripes, they were iterated in various directions, widths, and on different fabrications. Designers haven't shied away from all-over stripe looks, Giles and Suno did striped pyjama trousers and suits, Preen went for cricket stripes, and Peter Pilotto offered asymmetric panels on skater dresses, carrying varying stripes to good effect.

Clockwise from top: J. JS Lee, Giles, Preen & Thomas Tait

We also now have a sister trend on the grid, literally. Grid. Whether it be sheer, lattice, die cut or disguise as gingham its all here. Snappy black and white windowpane checks bring mod flair to strait-laced shapes demonstrated by Proenza Schouler, Balmain and Versace. Gingham doesn't have to be vanilla and strictly at children's picnic. Adult vision of gingham was seen on: soft knits and layered at Oscar De La Renta; chic wrap dress at Diane Von Furstenberg and sleek shirt and pencil skit at Altuzarra. So put that on your next S/S check list!

Clockwise from top: Temperley London, Akris, Bibhu Mohapatra & Oscar De La Renta 

High Shine : Trend Report SS15

After talks of decade of the seventies that has inspired many designers for next spring now lets look at colours. A spin off from the disco era (e.g. Tom Ford) we see a lot of metallics, both cool and warm tones. Metallics move forward every season with new textures. This SS15, electric sheen finishes came in the form of patent leathers, high-shine plastics and lurex fabrics like silk organza and satin.

The jewel shades of red, yellow, blue and green injects life into the mute pastels of the past summer season. Most notably at Michael Kors, 3.1 Phillip Lim and Victoria Beckham, paired with sunshine yellow, truest red, electric blues and emerald green.…I could go on, but let just say, it’s a trend.

Clockwise from top: Emilio De La Morena, Zimmermann, Lucas Nascimento & Christian Wijnants

Iridescent was also a common theme throughout. The ethereal sheer looks at Mary Katrantzou and space age party dresses at Markus Lupfer, Nineties/Millennial from Richard Nicoll. Looks were enhanced by muted metallics of white, silver, grey, pastel blue, pink and lilac. This shimmery palette works well across basics and dressier pieces.

 Clockwise from top: Monique Lhuillier, Honor, Richard Nicoll & Reem Acra

70's Groovy and Flared : Trend Report SS15

Every season, a particular decade takes over the runway. This SS15 fashion week was no doubt the 1970's time. The 70's is the decade of decadence and freedom of expression through fashion. The hippie child of Woodstock peace, love and music and the glitzy Studio54 rock stars goddesses were the year runway's muses.

The hippie culture dominated the late 60's and carried onto half of the 70's. The flower power child wore bohemian silhouette with a heavy folksy influence, free flowing breezy gauzy tent dresses and wide legged pants and of cause the birth of the maxi dress! The new length in contrast to the mini skirts of the 60's.  Arts and crafts elements such as tie-dye, batik, crochet and embellishment were also very popular. There was a great sense of ease and comfort to early 1970s clothing. Rich earthy tones dominated in popular colors; warm browns, burgundy, rust, mustard, and avocado green. Designers like Etro, Matthew Williamson, Emilio Pucci and Alberta Ferretti that has giving nod to this Boho spirit through wispy billowing dresses, plunge neckline, fringing and waistcoats.

Clockwise from top: Alberta Ferretti, Etro, Dries Van Noten & Pucci

If Boho make love not war is not your cuppa and you prefer something a little more glam then the 70's will also aim to please. Glitter rock brought on to the scene flamboyant boldly colored clothes in lux fabrics like satins, velvets and lurex. Disco brought excess and decadence. Designers and celebrities partied with the beautiful people at Studio 54 in New York City. Tom Ford, Saint Lauren and Tommy Hilfiger all channeled these party girls of the decade. This glam ladies not only parties hard but works hard too, they emerge in the workplace in pant suits, separates of masculine lines, leather, suede and pussy bows or skinny scarves looking smart and sexy a la American Hustle.

 Clockwise from top: Saint Laurent, Derek Lam, Tom Ford & Tommy Hilfiger